Expert Knowledge
Western performance saddles represent significant investments. Proper care protects that investment and keeps leather supple, trees sound, and rigging functional for decades. David Solum's professional recommendations.
Daily & Routine Care
Wipe down the seat, fenders, and any areas that contacted sweat with a clean, slightly damp cloth. Sweat is mildly acidic and will break down leather over time if left to dry into the grain. Do not use soap — it strips the natural oils leather depends on for flexibility.
Allow the saddle to dry completely at room temperature — never in direct sunlight, never with artificial heat, and never stored damp in a saddle bag or cover. A dry saddle stored covered is a saddle that will last decades.
In regular use, condition leather every 4–6 weeks with a quality product — Leather CPR, Neatsfoot Oil, or Leather Therapy are David's preferred options. Apply sparingly to skirts, jockeys, fenders, and the underside of the seat. Let it absorb fully before riding.
Condition until the leather is satisfied — when it stops absorbing, stop applying. Over-conditioning softens leather past its useful structural range. A performance saddle should be supple, not floppy.
Storage
Always store on a proper saddle stand — never on the ground, never on a fence rail, never draped over a stall door. A saddle resting incorrectly warps the tree and misshapes the skirts over time. A wall-mounted stand or floor rack is the minimum requirement.
Leather hates extremes. A tack room that cycles between very hot and very cold dries out leather faster than use does. In arid climates, condition more frequently. In humid climates, ensure air circulation to prevent mold. Never store in a sealed plastic bag — trapped moisture breeds mold on leather and causes silver to tarnish rapidly.
A breathable canvas or wool saddle cover keeps dust off without trapping moisture. Nylon covers trap condensation and are not appropriate for long-term storage. Remove the cover periodically to inspect for developing mold or pest activity.
Professional Repair
| Issue | Repairable? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Broken Tree | No — do not buy | A broken tree cannot be economically or safely repaired. Any flex in the fork means the saddle is structurally unsafe to ride. Walk away. |
| Dry, Cracked Leather | Partially | Surface cracking can be improved with deep conditioning. Cracking at stress points (fender folds, seat jockeys) indicates structural weakness — those areas need professional assessment. |
| Worn Billets | Yes | Billet straps are a standard consumable. Replace them before they fail. David recommends replacing billets on any used saddle before serious use regardless of appearance. |
| Loose Rigging | Yes | Rigging that moves or has loose dee rings can be re-secured by a professional saddler. Rigging that has torn through the leather requires panel replacement — significant cost. |
| Worn Seat | Yes | A worn suede or roughout seat can be replaced. A worn smooth leather seat can be replaced. The Rios Bros. at $495 in this inventory needs seat stitching — a straightforward repair priced accordingly. |
| Tarnished Silver | Yes | Silver polishing and silver restoration is routine. Sterling silver cleans to original condition. Silver-plated hardware eventually wears through — replating is possible but expensive. |
| Loose or Missing Conchos | Yes | Concho replacement is standard saddlery work. Matching existing conchos on high-end show saddles may require sourcing from the original maker or a specialty supplier. |
| Skirt Delamination | Sometimes | Skirts that have separated from the lining can be re-glued by a professional if caught early. Advanced delamination with mold involvement is typically not worth the repair cost on a used saddle. |
David consults on repair decisions and can connect you with qualified saddlers for work beyond basic maintenance. Before spending money on repairs, call him — he'll tell you whether the repair cost makes sense against the saddle's value. Contact David →
High-end show saddles with sterling silver packages require specific care. Polish silver with a quality silver cleaner — Wright's Silver Cream or Hagerty are the professional standards. Apply to a soft cloth, not directly to the silver. Polish in the direction of any engraving to avoid pushing product into the grooves. Rinse with clean water and dry immediately.
After polishing, apply a light coat of carnauba wax to the silver to slow future oxidation. Store silver-heavy saddles away from rubber — sulfur compounds in some rubber materials accelerate silver tarnish significantly.
David has assessed thousands of saddles. Send photos or call — he can give you a straight read on condition, repairability, and value in minutes.